Before the first cook of the season, check the gas hose and connections, the igniter, the burners and shields, the grates, the grease tray and the cover or body, then replace what is cracked, rusted through or no longer fits. Do the gas checks the way your manual describes, and stop at any sign of a leak.
A thorough check takes an afternoon and is easier now than when guests are on the way. The checklist below goes in the order that makes sense: safety first, then the gas path, then the parts you cook on.
Start with the manual and the gas connections, work from the bottom of the grill upward, clean before you judge, and replace parts that are cracked, holed or no longer fit. If anything smells or looks wrong on the gas side, stop and get help.
Before you touch anything
Open the manual, or find it on the maker's support page, and keep it nearby. It tells you how to check the gas connections, how to clean the burners and what the maker allows. Work on a cool grill with the gas off and the cylinder disconnected unless the manual directs a step otherwise.
Do your first checks outdoors, with good ventilation. A fire department's barbecue-safety page says propane and charcoal grills belong outdoors only, and the CDC lists charcoal grills among sources of carbon monoxide and says never to burn charcoal indoors. Wear gloves, because winter storage leaves sharp edges and grease.
If this checklist looks like a lot, remember that the same page asks for one thing every year before first use: check the propane hose. The rest of the list is how you make that check worth doing.
The gas path: hose, connections and cylinder
This is the part that cannot be skipped. The Colorado Springs page tells grillers to inspect the propane hose for leaks before first use each year, by brushing soapy water on the hose and watching for bubbles that show a leak. Follow your manual's exact method.
If you find a leak or smell gas with no flame, it says to shut off the tank and the grill. If the leak stops, have a professional service the grill before you use it again. If it does not stop, call the fire department. If you smell gas while cooking, step away, call the fire department and do not move the grill.
Also look at the hose itself for cracks, stiffness, burns or kinks, and look at the regulator and connections for damage. Check the cylinder for rust, dents or damage, and ask your propane supplier about its condition and any date marks. Do not repair gas parts yourself, and replace hoses and regulators only with the maker's listed parts.
Replacement parts matched to your grill model
Best for Hoses, regulators and other worn parts, bought by model number
For gas-side parts, start with the maker's own parts page. If you use a marketplace, search by the maker and the full model number and skip anything that does not name your model.
Burners, igniter and shields
With the grates out, look at the burners. Check the ports for clogs, debris or heavy rust, and look for cracks or burned-out sections. Follow the manual for cleaning them, because the method depends on the burner. Our guide to matching a replacement burner covers what to record if one has to go.
Check the igniter next. If the grill uses a battery, replace the battery first; if there is no spark, look at the wiring and electrode for damage or grease, and use a match-light method only if your manual describes one. When the shields or bars over the burners are holed or warped, see our guide to replacing heat shields.
Grates, trays and the firebox
Pull the grates and look at them in daylight. Light rust and stuck-on residue usually clean off, while cracked, flaking or badly pitted grates are replacement candidates. Our grate care guide explains how to look after different types.
Check the thermometer in the lid too, if your grill has one, and make sure the lid closes squarely and the handle is tight. Then empty and clean the grease tray and cup, and clear residue from the firebox. The fire department page advises removing grease and fat buildup from the grill and the drip trays below it, and not leaving a grill alone while it is in use. Our guide to grease trays, liners and drip pans covers sizing and cleaning. Replace trays that have rusted through or no longer direct grease where it should go.
Grill cleaning kit for the start of the season
Best for A first deep clean of grates, firebox and tray
Choose tools the manual allows for your grates and burners, and avoid anything that leaves loose bristles or particles on the cooking surface. Our cleaning-tools guide compares options.
If you cook with charcoal
A charcoal grill has no hoses to check, but the same discipline applies. Look at the vents and damper to see that they open and close freely, check the bowl or firebox for rust-through, clear old ash and make sure the lid fits. Our ash tools guide covers cleanup.
Plan your first light. The Colorado Springs page recommends a chimney starter with newspaper or an electric starter, says to use only charcoal starter fluid if you use fluid at all, and says to let coals cool completely before putting them in a metal container. Keep the grill outdoors and away from the house, eaves and branches.
Before you light anything, check where the grill sits. Winter storms move things, so make sure the grill is level and stable, that nothing flammable has drifted nearby and that the cover or any stored items are not touching the body. Our grill fire extinguisher guide covers keeping one within reach.
What to clean, fix or replace
Use this table to sort what you found. It describes tendencies rather than rules.
| Part | Clean or fix when | Replace when |
|---|---|---|
| Gas hose and regulator | Never fix; follow the manual | Cracked, stiff, burned, damaged or leaking |
| Burners | Ports are clogged but the metal is sound | Rusted through, cracked or burned out |
| Igniter | Battery is dead or contacts are dirty | No spark after the battery and wiring check |
| Heat shields and bars | Covered in grease or light surface rust | Holed, flaking or warped |
| Grates | Residue or light rust | Cracked, flaking or badly pitted |
| Grease tray and cup | Dirty | Rusted through or no longer sitting right |
| Cover | Dirty or damp | Torn, brittle or no longer fits |
If the list of replacements is long, step back and read our repair or replace guide before you spend, and see how to winterize and store your grill for the autumn half of this routine.
Frequently asked questions
What should I check first on a gas grill in spring?
The propane hose and connections. A fire department advises checking the hose for leaks before first use each year, by brushing soapy water on it and watching for bubbles.
What do I do if I smell gas?
Shut off the tank and the grill if you can do so safely, step away and call the fire department. One fire department advises not moving the grill.
How do I know if my grates need replacing?
Cracked, flaking or badly pitted grates are replacement candidates. Light rust and stuck-on residue usually clean off.
Is it safe to run a charcoal grill in a garage in spring?
No. The CDC lists charcoal grills among carbon monoxide sources and says never to burn charcoal indoors. Use grills outdoors only.
Should I replace the grill cover every spring?
Not by schedule. Replace it when it is torn, brittle or no longer fits, and make sure it is dry before the grill is covered.
- Colorado Springs Fire Department, barbecue safety: outdoor-only use, yearly hose check, leak response, grease removal, charcoal lighting and coal disposal.
- CDC, About carbon monoxide: charcoal grills as a carbon monoxide source and not burning charcoal indoors.
No part lifespans, torque values or cylinder dates are stated. The fire-department guidance is one city's page; your manual and local rules come first, and a qualified technician should handle any gas-side repair.