Replace the metal bars or tents over your burners when they have rusted through, warped so they no longer sit properly, or burned away enough that drippings can reach the burners. Fit the new set by your grill's exact model number, then confirm shape, length, width and the way each piece rests in the firebox.
Makers use different names for these parts, including flavorizer bars, heat tents, heat plates and heat shields, but the job is the same: sit between the food and the burners to catch drippings and help spread heat.
Replace shields when they are holed, warped or flaking, not just discolored. Buy the set listed for your exact model, measure what you have, and follow the manual on installation and on using the grill without them.
What these parts do
Wikipedia describes heat shields on gas grills as parts that do a similar job to lava rock or ceramic briquettes on a rock grate: they protect the burners from falling grease and help spread heat more evenly. It adds that heat shields are lighter and easier to swap out than rock, and that they burn off drippings.
Wikipedia also notes that fat dripping between grate bars can ignite in a flare-up, and that some grills use plates, baffles and similar parts to steer fluids away from the burners. That is why a shield in poor shape is more than a cosmetic problem: it affects how the grill handles grease and how evenly it heats.
Names vary by maker, so use the term in your manual when you search. A "heat tent" or "heat plate" in one manual may be called a "bar" in another.
Signs it is time to replace them
These parts live in the harshest spot on the grill, with heat above and grease below, so some wear is normal. Use these signs to decide between a thorough cleaning and a new set:
| What you see | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Dark staining or light surface rust | Normal wear. Clean as your manual allows and keep watching. |
| Heavy flaking or scale that falls off | The metal is thinning. Replacement is coming. |
| Holes or rust-through | Replace. Drippings can reach the burners. |
| Bent or warped pieces that rock or leave gaps | Replace if they no longer sit flat. |
| Coating chipping off in patches | Check the maker's guidance on coated parts and replace if the metal underneath is rusting. |
| Hot spots, uneven flames or more flare-ups than before | Look at the shields, but also check burner ports and grease buildup. |
A cleaning first is often worthwhile, since grease can hide the condition of the metal. A fire department's barbecue-safety page advises keeping the grill and its drip trays free of grease and fat, and our cleaning guide covers the routine. If a clean, cooled shield still has holes, it is done.
How to size a replacement set
Fit starts with the model number from the rating plate or label. One maker's support page says the serial number is on a rating plate on the back of the grill, and your manual shows where yours is. Photograph the label and search the maker's parts pages with the full number.
Then measure and record what you have, with the grill cold, the gas off and the cylinder disconnected, following the manual:
- Count. How many pieces, one per burner or a different number.
- Shape. Peaked tent, flat plate, angled bar or V-shape, and which way each faces.
- Length and width. Measure the old piece at its longest and widest, and record the firebox opening too, since parts must clear the sides.
- Support method. Whether pieces rest on tabs, hook on rails, slot into brackets or sit loose.
- Material. Stainless, coated steel or cast, and any coating, so you can compare it with listings.
If a piece is too rusted to measure, measure the burner spacing and the firebox opening instead, and use the model-number parts list. Never rely on "fits most grills" in a listing. Check whether the listing is for a single piece or a full set, and count what you need. If only one piece has failed but the rest are thin, buying the whole set avoids reopening the firebox a month later. Our guide to matching burners to your model uses the same recording method.
Replacement heat shields or flavorizer bars by model number
Best for A gas grill with holed, warped or flaking shields
Search with the maker's name and your complete model number, then compare piece count, shape and dimensions with your notes. If a listing does not name the models it fits, treat it as unconfirmed.
Fitting them safely
Work on a cold grill with the gas off and the cylinder disconnected, and wear sturdy gloves because old parts can have sharp edges. Take photos before you remove anything so you can put the pieces back in the same orientation.
Lift out the grates, then the shields, then clear out the grease and debris from the firebox and drip tray. Check the burners and ignition parts while the shields are out, and look for clogged ports or damaged wiring. Fit the new pieces exactly as the old ones sat, with no rocking, and make sure none touches the igniter or blocks the burner ports.
If the new part does not drop in without force, do not bend it to fit. Recheck the model number, and contact the maker or seller. Your manual also says whether the grill should be used without these parts in place; many instructions require them, so do not skip the step.
Heavy work gloves for the firebox
Best for Cleaning grease and removing old shields
Choose gloves that give you grip and cover the wrist, and use them only on a cold grill. Gloves for handling hot food are a different product.
After the swap: check, light, watch
Before cooking, check the gas connections as your manual describes. One fire department describes brushing soapy water on the propane hose and watching for bubbles, which indicate a leak, and says to shut off the tank and the grill if you find one, and to call the fire department if the leak continues. If you smell gas while cooking, it says to step away and call the fire department.
When you light the grill, watch the flames and the first few minutes of heat. Uneven flames, burners that will not light and unusual noises are reasons to shut the grill off and recheck. Our flare-up prevention guide covers what to do about fat, and the grate care guide keeps the parts above the shields in shape.
If a grill needs burners, shields, hoses and grates all at once, our repair or replace guide helps you decide whether it is still worth the money.
Frequently asked questions
How often should flavorizer bars or heat shields be replaced?
There is no fixed schedule. Replace them when they are holed, warped or flaking, and check them after a thorough cleaning. Usage, climate and cleaning habits change how fast they wear.
Can I use a universal heat shield?
Only if the dimensions, shape and support method match your grill and the listing confirms it. Using the set listed for your model number is the safer approach.
Do heat shields add flavor?
Wikipedia says heat shields burn off drippings, which can add flavor, but results depend on the grill. The main job is protecting burners and spreading heat.
Is it safe to use the grill without the shields?
Check your manual. Many grills are designed to be used with them in place, and the manual says whether you can cook without them.
Is rust on a heat shield dangerous?
Light surface rust is a wear sign. Holes, flaking and warping mean the part should be replaced, and heavy grease buildup should be cleaned off according to the manual.
- Wikipedia, Barbecue grill (secondary source): heat shields as lighter, swappable parts that protect burners and burn off drippings, and plates and baffles that steer fat away from burners.
- Colorado Springs Fire Department, barbecue safety: removing grease and fat from the grill and drip trays, soap-and-water hose check and leak response.
- Napoleon grill support page: example of a rating plate on the back of the grill.
No part dimensions, lifespans or model compatibility are claimed. Part names differ by maker, so confirm the name, shape and fit on your maker's parts page, and follow the manual and a qualified technician for gas-side work.