To match a replacement gas grill burner, start with the model number printed on your grill, then confirm the burner's shape, length, width and mounting against the maker's parts diagram. A tube that looks about right is the usual way people end up with a burner that does not seat on the valve or leaves the igniter too far from the ports.
Burners are on the gas side of the grill, so buy parts made for your exact model, follow the manual for removal and installation, and bring in a qualified technician if you are unsure.
Model number first, then burner shape, length, width and mounting. Buy the part listed for your exact model, check for gas leaks the way your manual describes, and stop if anything does not seat without force.
Find the model number before anything else
Everything starts with the model number, and it is not always the name on the box. Many grill families are sold for years with small changes underneath, so two grills with the same marketing name can use different burners.
Look for a rating plate or label. One maker's support page says the serial number sits on a rating plate on the back of the grill, and other makers put labels inside a cabinet door, on a side shelf or on the frame. Your manual shows where yours is. Take a clear photo of the whole label, including every number on it, and keep the photo with your shopping notes.
Also write down how many burners the grill has and which one is failing, because the burners are not always identical. Many parts lists sell burners individually or as a set, and the left, center and right positions can differ on the same grill.
Know what kind of burner you have
Gas grill burners are usually made of stainless steel, aluminized steel or cast iron, and some are porcelain-coated. Common shapes include straight tube, H, oval and figure-8, and some are called pipe or rail burners. A straight tube burner mostly heats one section of the grill, while the shape of an H or oval burner spreads the flame differently.
Material and shape both affect what you can substitute. A different shape may not line up with the valve, the igniter or the heat shields above it. Use this table as a recording sheet before you search:
| Record this | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Model number from the label | Parts lists and fit checks start here. |
| Burner shape | Tube, H, oval and figure-8 are not interchangeable. |
| Overall length, ends included | The gas inlet end and the closed end both affect fit. |
| Width or diameter | Determines how it sits under the shields and grates. |
| Mounting method | Clip, tab, screw or rail, and where it attaches to the firebox. |
| Igniter position | The spark needs to reach the ports, or the grill may not light. |
| Material | Stainless, aluminized steel or cast iron, and whether it is coated. |
Measure the old burner without guessing
Only work on a cold grill with the gas off and the cylinder disconnected, following the manual's removal steps. If the manual does not cover burner removal, that is a sign to call the maker or a qualified technician instead of improvising.
Once the burner is out, lay it on a flat surface and photograph it from the top, side and both ends. Measure the overall length including the inlet end, the width and the distance between mounting points, and record the measurements next to the photos. Do not trust a single number from memory. A burner that is slightly too short can seat badly against the valve, and one that is slightly too long may not drop into the firebox.
Look at the old burner's ports, too. Check the ignition end and any crossover slot as well, since the spark has to find a path to the ports. Clogged or rusted-out ports are sometimes a cleaning problem rather than a replacement problem, and the maker's manual explains what it allows. Our guide to repairing or replacing an old gas grill covers when a burner swap is worth the effort.
Replacement burner for your exact model
Best for A grill whose burner has rusted through, cracked or burned out
Search with the maker's name and your full model number, then compare the listing's shape, length and mounting with your notes. If the listing does not state the model it fits, treat it as unconfirmed.
Universal burners, look-alikes and used parts
Search results are full of universal burners that promise to fit many grills. Some do, if length, width, shape and mounting match, but "fits most grills" is not a compatibility statement for yours. For the gas side of the grill, the maker's own part listed for your model is the safest route.
Used burners are an option for older grills whose parts are hard to find, and an eBay search by model number can turn them up. Check the photos for cracked ports, thin or flaking metal and bent inlet ends, and ask the seller which model the burner came from. A burner that fits physically is not guaranteed to work with your valve and igniter.
Whatever you buy, keep the seller's description and your model number photo until the part is installed and tested, so a return is easy if the fit is wrong. If you are also dealing with heavy grease around the burners, our flare-up prevention guide explains how buildup contributes, and the grate care guide helps you keep the parts above the burners in good shape.
Install, then check for leaks the way your manual says
Follow the manual for installation, and do not force a burner that will not seat. After the work, check the gas connections for leaks. A city fire department's barbecue-safety page describes brushing soapy water on the propane hose, with bubbles indicating a leak. If you find a leak or smell gas with no flame lit, it says to shut off the tank and the grill. If the leak stops, have a professional service the grill before using it again, and if it continues, call the fire department.
If you smell gas while cooking, the same page says to step away, call the fire department and leave the grill where it is. Treat that as the rule for any gas problem after a repair: stop, shut off, get help.
Then light the grill following the manual and look at the flames. The manual describes what a normal flame looks like, and uneven flames or burners that will not light are reasons to shut the grill off and recheck the fit, the ports and the igniter before cooking. Our gas grills page lists the buying notes if the repair is not worth it.
Frequently asked questions
Where do I find my grill's model number?
Look for a rating plate or label on the back of the grill, inside a cabinet door, on a side shelf or on the frame, and check your manual. Photograph the whole label and use the number printed on it, not the name on the box.
Are universal grill burners safe to use?
Some universal burners fit some grills, but a general fit claim is not a statement about your model. For gas-side parts, use the part the maker lists for your exact model and follow the manual.
Can I clean a burner instead of replacing it?
Sometimes clogged ports are a cleaning issue. Follow your manual for what it allows, and replace the burner if it is rusted through, cracked or burned out.
How do I check for a gas leak after installing a burner?
Follow your manual's method. One fire department describes brushing soapy water on the hose and watching for bubbles. If you smell gas or find a leak, shut off the tank and grill and get professional help.
Is a used burner a good idea?
It can be for older models with scarce parts, if you confirm the model it came from and inspect the ports and metal. A used part that looks right is not guaranteed to work with your valve and igniter.
- Napoleon grill support page: example of a rating plate on the back of the grill and parts help by model.
- Wikipedia, Barbecue grill (secondary source): burner materials and common burner shapes.
- Colorado Springs Fire Department, barbecue safety: soap-and-water hose check and leak response.
No burner dimensions, part numbers or model compatibility are claimed. Confirm fit on the maker's parts page or with the maker's customer service, and follow your manual and a qualified technician for anything on the gas side.