Open-Box, Display and Last-Year Grills: What to Inspect Before You Buy

Treat an open-box, display or last-year grill as a purchase with two separate questions: what is the condition of this exact unit, and what will the maker cover if something fails. Settle the warranty in writing first, then inspect the grill part by part against the manual's parts list.

A lower price is only a deal if the grill is complete, undamaged and still supported with parts, and if you understand what the warranty does and does not cover on a unit that has been out of its original box.

What the three labels usually mean

There is no single definition shared by every seller, so ask for yours in writing. The three labels describe different risks:

These categories overlap, and a seller may use "open-box" for any of them. A condition note on the listing is not a substitute for answers to the main question in each row.

Warranty first, because it is the part a discount can erase

Maker warranty pages show how the label can change the coverage. Blackstone's warranty page limits coverage to the original purchaser, requires a dated sales receipt to establish the warranty period, and says the full warranty does not apply to griddles bought from unlicensed third-party resellers, at a discount because of missing or damaged parts, or as floor models. Char-Broil's warranty page covers genuine products bought by the original consumer purchaser from a Char-Broil-owned website or an authorized retailer or reseller, requires proof of purchase from an authorized source, and says products from unauthorized sellers may not qualify for replacement parts or other manufacturer-backed benefits.

Other makers write their own terms, but the pattern is worth learning: floor models, discounted-for-damage units and unauthorized sellers are common exclusions. Under the FTC's warranty rules, the written warranty terms on a consumer product costing more than fifteen dollars must be available before you buy, and the law does not require any seller to offer a written warranty at all. So ask: does the maker's warranty apply to this unit, and does the seller add its own?

Save the receipt and a photo of the label showing the model number and the date or serial. If the seller offers its own store warranty, get its terms in writing.

The inspection checklist

Bring the manual's parts list on your phone, or ask the seller to show you the grill beside the maker's exploded diagram. Then work through these steps:

1. Identify it. Match the model number on the label to the maker's product page, and note the year if the label shows one.
2. Count parts. Grates, burners or fuel parts, heat shields, shelves, knobs, hardware and the cover or accessories that were meant to be in the box.
3. Check the body and lid. Look for dents, warping, chipped paint, rust on the firebox and underside, and a lid that closes evenly.
4. Inspect the cooking surface. Grates should be intact, with no cracks and no flaking coating. Griddle tops should not show deep rust or warping.
5. Examine the controls. Knobs should turn smoothly and igniters should be present and attached. Vents and dampers on charcoal grills should move freely.
6. Look at hoses and cords. Gas hoses should not be cracked or sticky. Power cords and plugs on electric or pellet grills should have no frayed or damaged insulation.
7. Check cleanliness. Grease, ash and residue suggest use. That is fine for a discounted display model, but it should be reflected in the price.

For a gas grill, ask whether the unit has been leak-tested, and have the connection and hose checked as the manual directs before the first cook. A city fire department's barbecue-safety page describes a soap-and-water check of the gas hose, with bubbles indicating a leak, and says a leaking grill should be serviced by a professional before use. Never light a grill you suspect is leaking.

Last year's model: new, but is it supported?

A previous-model grill may be unopened and perfectly sound. The question is whether it stays supported. Look at the maker's page for the current model, then compare the list of changes, if one exists, with the older grill's features. Check that the manual is available to download, and that the maker still lists parts and accessories for the model number you are buying.

Ask when the warranty period starts. Blackstone's page, for example, uses the dated sales receipt to establish the warranty period, so the receipt matters. Ask the maker or seller how the period is counted for the unit you are buying, especially if it sat in a warehouse or on a showroom floor, and get the answer in writing.

Read the total price against a new, current grill from an authorized seller, including delivery. Our guide to comparing grills on sale gives a side-by-side checklist for that comparison.

Reading the price and the paperwork

An open-box discount should leave you with a documented grill. Ask the seller to write down the condition, to list anything missing or marked, and to state the return terms for that unit. If the discount is because of missing or damaged parts, find out what the maker's warranty says about that, because some terms exclude such units.

Be careful with "was" prices on discounted units. The FTC's deceptive-pricing guide says a former price must be a genuine price at which the item was offered to the public on a regular basis. A display model's "was" price may refer to a new unit, so compare the new-unit price from several authorized sellers. For return rules on bulky items and delivery checks, read our return window and delivery checklist.

Our grill cleaning tools guide explains which style suits which surface, and how to buy a grill is the place to start if you have not settled on a fuel type.